Mmmm! Biting into a fresh tomato on a hot summer day can be one of a gardener’s most pleasurable experiences. But if you haven’t grown tomatoes before, what do you need to know? Here are some basic answers.
First, you need to decide whether to grow determinate or indeterminate tomatoes. Determinate plants are smaller and more compact, usually between 3 to 5 ft. (1 to 1.5 m) tall. Because of their bushier growth habit, they need no pruning and can be good for growing in pots as well as in the garden. Another determinate trait is having fruit that tends to ripen all at once, after which the plant’s growth slows significantly or stops. So if your aim is to grow tomatoes to make sauces in large batches, choose a determinate variety such as Roma. Its meaty texture and small number of seeds is also perfect for this purpose. You needn’t consider determinant tomatoes only for sauces, though. A popular determinate variety for fresh tomato uses is Rutgers. Its classic tomato flavor has made it a favorite for almost 100 years.
In contrast to determinate tomatoes, indeterminate types grow much taller in a vinelike fashion, sometimes up to 20 ft. (6 m) tall if allowed to keep growing until killed by frost. Indeterminate plants also produce fruit over a longer period than determinate varieties do, enabling you to harvest tomatoes all summer long. And indeterminate yields can be easily enhanced if the side shoots of the plants are simply pruned away early in the season. Another reason for growing indeterminates is their often exceptional flavor and wide assortment of sizes and colors. If your goal is fresh tomatoes for sandwiches, explore the many beefsteak-style indeterminates, such as Big Boy or Brandywine. For summer salads, most cherry tomatoes are indeterminate, and choices like Black Krim and Cherokee Purple can add interesting, nontraditional color.
Once you’ve selected which tomato varieties to grow, a few tips will help to make your efforts successful. Because virtually all tomatoes need at least 8 hours of sunlight daily, avoid planting them in shade. And since tomatoes won’t set fruit if the temperature drops below about 55°F (13°C), choosing a spot with a wall or other structure on the north side can help provide reflected heat on cool nights. As for depth of planting, I bury the stem of my young tomatoes up to the first set of leaves. The buried part will sprout roots and give the plants more stability. Some organic growers suggest putting a banana peel under the plant for additional nutrients, but I’ve found this technique doesn’t appear to make a difference. What does make a difference is providing the plants with proper support to enable sunlight to penetrate the foliage and ripen the fruit. Indeterminate plants, of course, need larger supports than determinate types do. But determinate types can also benefit from a stake or cage that keeps the fruit off the ground. And equally important to providing sufficient sunlight, be sure to also give your tomato plants ample water throughout the often dry summer months. If you do, you’ll likely be rewarded with an impressive harvest that has flavor and freshness vastly superior to anything available in stores.